Tuesday, April 8, 2014

Congaree National Park and Columbia, SC

In March we took a weekend trip to Congaree National Park near Columbia, South Carolina. This is one of the newest National Parks, established in 2003. Congaree has one of the highest temperate forest canopies in the world (mostly due to the fact that nearly all temperate forests on Earth were cut down at some point in their history). The forest canopy and old growth forest makes this a unique park, and gives visitors an idea of what much of eastern North America must have looked like before European settlement and clear-cutting.

For this trip, we were joined by our Atlanta friend, Jenny (you may recall her from our Puerto Rico adventure) and a friend that recently moved from Texas (we visited her in Dallas last year) to Raleigh, Lindsay. We stayed in Columbia for two nights and took in some of the sights and tastes of this southern capital city.

The first day of the trip we stopped by a small roller coaster in Augusta and toured some of downtown Columbia, before eating at a local brewpub near our hotel. The beer wasn't the best, but the building was really cool and it's good to see beer culture spreading throughout the south.

On the way we stopped in Augusta for Paul to get a Wacky Worm coaster credit. Jenny rode too!
University of South Carolina Campus
South Carolina State Capitol grounds
Statue of a palmetto in the Capitol grounds
South Carolina... you so racist
Monument to African American history, from slave ship to post Jim Crow

On Saturday morning we got up early and went to Soda City Market, a cute farmer's market on main street. We got breakfast and some snacks to bring to Congaree. David found homemade kimchi too! After the market, we drove down to the national park to meet a guide for our kayak trip. Congaree has lots of water; a large portion of the park is basically a swamp. We kayaked on Cedar Creek for about three hours. The middle of March is a great time to go. There aren't any mosquitoes yet and the weather isn't too hot. There was a big ice storm in February that knocked down a lot of trees, so at times it was like kayaking through a maze trying to avoid downed trees and branches. It made for an exciting trip! When it was time to turn around and head back, we got a bit turned around and we got lost. Fortunately, we found our way back in one piece, with the added bonus of an extra hour of kayaking. We had a fantastic time and highly recommend Adventure Carolina for your kayak needs. To complete our day in Congaree, we took a 4 mile hike in the park. Part of it was on elevated boardwalks, and part was on dirt trails. It was neat walking past swampy areas and huge loblolly pines. Because of heavy flooding, there were some areas covered in water - but we only got a little bit muddy.

Downtown Columbia farmer's market
Where does this door go!?  Narnia I bet!  I'll bring kimchi.
New style of National Park sign.  Fancy!
Kayaking crew
Beautiful day to be outside
No leaves yet, unfortunately, but also no mosquitoes!
Congaree is basically a swamp...
...with some massive trees!
Paddle!
Lots of trees had "knees." Interestingly enough, botanists aren't really sure what they're for.
The kayak crew!
Avoid the tree!
We were some of the only people out in Congaree this day
Nature... you crazy!
Jenny, we love you, but if you fall in that water you're on your own, girl!
Recent flooding (common in the spring) made some of the boardwalks impassable
After a day full of hiking and kayaking, we went back to Columbia for a showers and a nice dinner. We went to Motor Supply Co. Bistro for dinner in the Vista neighborhood, a short distance from our hotel. This area of town is home to lots of restaurants and bars and they were all hopping. The city had a big St. Patrick's day party in Five Points and people spilled over into nearby neighborhoods to keep the festivities going. When you see people that drunk at 8PM you know it must be St. Patrick's day!

The following day we had hoped to explore more of Columbia outdoors, but nature had another plan. It rained all day. So instead, we took a little driving tour to see some of Columbia's historic houses and quirky Americana, then went to the South Carolina State Museum. The museum was nice and was a combination natural history and state history museum. They're adding on a large planetarium later this year, so next time we pass through we'll be sure to return.

We parted ways with Lindsay at the State Museum, since she had to drive back to North Carolina. On our way back to Atlanta we stopped in Augusta for dinner and met David's aunt Marianne and cousin Will at Whiskey Bar/Kitchen. After catching up for a bit we crossed the bridge back into South Carolina to seize a photo-op with an awkward statue!

World's largest fire hydrant.  Check!
It would look more real if there weren't a car parked right in front of it
Giant prehistoric North American mammals are the best prehistoric mammals!
Being such an avid ice cream connoisseur, Paul stopped in for a bite at Paradise Ice
On the way home we visited David's cousin and aunt in Augusta for dinner and a jump!

The area around Columbia is an interesting visit. While the city itself is just OK, the real attraction is Congaree National Park. The huge trees and unique biosphere are really worth visiting. So grab a kayak and get going!

Thursday, March 27, 2014

Stockholm

Our final stop in Sweden was Stockholm, the capital city. Stockholm has a humongous selection of museums and we had to plan our time carefully to make sure we got to do most of the things we wanted.  Rather than staying in a hotel, we used airbnb to rent an apartment in the bohemian Södermalm neighborhood. The first thing we noticed about Stockholm was that there was no snow!  In fact, our entire time in Stockholm was above freezing.  The heat wave continues!  

We arrived in the late afternoon and visited the photography museum, a short walk from our apartment. It had some neat rotating exhibits. Next we had dinner at Tradition Restaurant, know for having classic Swedish dishes. Yes, David got Swedish meatballs! We finished the day with a very interesting night at Oliver Twist bar. Drunk Swedes are a lot more talkative than sober Swedes and some of them sure do love Twin Peaks!

Our apartment. Much more space than a hotel!
(O_o) Swedish is a fun language...
Finally!  Some meatballs.
Janice enjoying some local beer and potato dumplings

On our first full day in Stockholm, we covered a lot of ground (13.4 miles of walking, according to David's fitbit). We explored a few neighborhoods, took in the views, and walked around Gamla Stan, the historic center of the city. Gamla Stan is located on its own island, and features narrow streets and a lot of neat shops. Sure, it's touristy, but it's fun. The highlight of the day (and one of the highlights of Sweden) was the Vasa Museum. It's a museum built specifically for a 17th century war ship that sank just off Stockholm on its maiden voyage. The ship was finally raised and restored in the 1960s, after more than 300 years under water. The Vasa is surprisingly intact, with some really elaborate carvings. It was definitely one of the most unique and interesting museums we've ever visited.


Our street in Södermalm: Folkungagatan
They start hockey players pretty young in Sweden
You're a rikstelefon!  Anything with an 1800s western saloon door is fine by us!
Atlanta has achieved world domination through Coca-Cola
View toward Gamla Stan
A square in Gamla Stan
A surprisingly huge sci-fi bookstore
Staying cool in Gamla Stan
There's water everywhere you look in Stockholm
More walking? Our feet are tired!
A neat piece of art showing the city's daily water and electricity use
Boats and architecture in central Stockholm
The Vasa
The back of the Vasa
Beautiful architecture on a random building

The next day we went on a winter boat tour of the Stockholm archipelago. It was a much warmer day than average, but was still chilly with the wind blowing off the water. There was a huge tour group of Russian teenagers on our boat, but luckily they were relatively well behaved. It was neat to see the city from the water, even with no snow. Our next stop was the Nobel Museum. It's a little small (they're moving/expanding soon), but had neat kiosks with information on every Nobel prize winner. It was fun to search through and find some familiar winners, like Martin Luther King Jr, Watson and Crick, Al Gore and the IPCC, and Doctors Without Borders. After, we watched the changing of the guard at the royal palace and then toured the palace itself.

Unusually warm and sunny for a winter boat tour!
Gamla Stan from the water
Gröna Lund! Unfortunately closed for the winter. :(
It was a bit windy and Peter is very delicate, like a flower
Walking in Gamla Stan
Exhibit on the precursor to the polio vaccine Nobel prize
The changing of the guard
Our new Swedish boyfriend
More like Sir Tastes-like-crap

On our last day in Sweden, we visited the Nordiska Museum. It's in a neat historic building, and houses exhibits on Swedish life and culture. This would be a good first stop for people visiting Sweden - it includes everything from a comprehensive exhibit on the indigenous Sámi people to a display on the use of stripes in contemporary Swedish design.We took another long walk around a few different neighborhoods, taking in the architecture and streetlife, and stopping by the Saluhall, a big food market.

The front entrance of the Nordic Museum
Inside the Nordic Museum
Swedish people from the 1970s! Run!
A taco truck! Unfortunately they were out of tacos.
The Saluhall
Yummy Vasterbotten cheese
There wasn't much snow for the children's winter Olympics festival!
The central library

Sweden was a great destination and a unique country. All in all, over the course of the trip we walked about 75 miles in 10 days. We saw frozen lakes and mountains, fjords and reindeer, a major world city and small Scandinavian hamlets. Going in the winter provided a unique experience with a cheaper price tag. Maybe we'll come back some day in the summer, but  in our opinion winter is the time to go. Before we return to Sweden, there are 150 more countries in the world we haven't visited...yet!