Monday, February 20, 2012

Mexico City (La Cuidad!)

Earlier this month we had the chance to spend a long weekend in Mexico City for our friend Elaine's birthday!  We scored an awesome deal at $300/person for the round trip flight from Atlanta to Mexico.  The flight is short, only about 3 hours, making it closer than California.

Día Uno
We arrived on Wednesday evening at about 9pm.  We took the subway from the airport to the hotel in the city center.  The metro system is very comprehensive, and we used it multiple times throughout the trip.  At 3 pesos/trip ($0.25) it's a steal!  Most of the time on the subway you feel like a sardine.  The trains are all on rubber tires so the ride isn't usually very smooth.  The doors often open before the train comes to a complete stop (scary!) and there are people trying to sell you stuff from time to time.  Before every trip we had to make sure we all knew where we were going, because we were occasionally split up trying to get on/off the trains.  Since the system was started before literacy in Mexico had improved, all the stations had iconography as well as written names to distinguish them.

Mexico City Metro Station Iconography
After we arrived at the hotel, we checked in and went to an adjacent restaurant (Café Popular) for a late dinner.  The city was celebrating Candelaria so there were special regional tamales on the menu.  We got a few and some enchiladas and a pitcher of Horchata!  Yum.

Día Dos
This was our first full day in Mexico.  While the rest of us headed over to the Frida Kahlo Museum (Casa Azul) and the Coyoacán (Coyote) neighborhood, Paul obviously high-tailed it to some roller coasters. Six Flags Mexico is a very nice park with great theming. Unfortunately most of the coasters are just so-so, with the exception of Superman, which is awesome.

Señor Churro at Six Flags Mexico

Coyoacán is a great neighborhood.  Before heading to the museum we grabbed a late breakfast in a second floor restaurant that overlooked a plaza.  After eating we walked around a bit and found a tamale festival!  We sampled several tamales and then headed to the Frida Kahlo Museum.  The exhibits were great and we enjoyed touring the house Frida lived in during her childhood and with her husband Diego Rivera.

Coyoacán Neighborhood
Frida Kahlo's Casa Azul
Frida and Diego in the flesh!
Frida and Diego...out of the flesh

Afterward, we all met up and went to the main square of the historic district, Zócalo. We visited the   Catedral Metropolitana de la Asunción de María, the Palacio de Bellas Artes, and the National Palace, all while trying to avoid a rare February rain storm.

Palacio de Bellas Artes
Palacio de Bellas Artes
Palacio de Bellas Artes
Catedral Metropolitana de la Asunción de María 

Since it was Elaine's birthday, she made reservations ahead of time for us at Dulce Patria in the Polanco neighborhood.  The head chef there is Martha Ortiz Chapa, famous for reintroducing upscale Mexican food to the capital city. It was a superb meal.  The grand total for the meal came to 3,000 pesos (about $230).  Not bad for 5 people at a five star, top notch restaurant!  Paul had the duck mole negro and thought it was one of the best things he's ever eaten!

Día Tres
On the third day, we set out early on a bus for Teotihuacan, an archaeological site about 30 miles northeast of the city.  The site was constructed from about 100BCE to 250CE, and features two huge pyramids.  Scholars aren't 100% sure who built it, but it was eventually taken by the Aztec people, and flourished as a major city until its abandonment around the year 600.  Both of the big pyramids have been majorly re-constructed, but there are still a few unexcavated pyramid mounds around the site.  The Pyramid of the Sun is by some measures one of the largest pyramids on earth, at 233 feet tall.

The Steps at the Pyramid of the Sun were designed to look like a face and a stick man
Jumping on the moon pyramid!
On top of the Pyramid of the Sun, with the Pyramid of the Moon behind us 

That night, we went to see a Lucha Libre (Mexican wrestling) match.  Lucha Libre is similar to American WWE in that it's pretty fake, but there are back stories and dramatic occurrences that make it like a soap opera with punching making it great for guys and gals!  Unfortunately, no cameras were allowed, so we didn't get any pictures.

Día Cuatro
We started day four with a trip to the Xochimilco neighborhood on the far south side of Mexico City.  This neighborhood is UNESCO designated for it's system of canals that preserve how the city used to look.  Mexico City used to be on an island in the middle of a lake.  The Aztecs built a series of canals to get around, but gradually the land was drained and the canals were lost.  The remaining canals are popular with tourists and family outings.  There are a series of docks in Xochimilco where you can rent a pole-man driven boat for a 90 minute outing.  Other boats will sail up next to you and try to sell you food or have you buy a song from a mariachi band.  All-in-all a very interesting and enjoyable experience.  Should you find yourself in Xochimilco, make sure you haggle down the price on the boats...initial asking price for us was 1800 pesos...we talked that down to 500 after 20 minutes of horrible Spanish haggling from Elaine and David.

Breakfast in the market at Xochimilco
Colorful boat on the canals at Xochimilco

After our boat ride, Paul went off to La Feria Chapultepec to get a few more coaster credits.  The rest of the group went to the Ciudadela Crafts Market back near the city center.  Most of us made it out with a few neat trinkets and a full stomach from the small restaurant in the middle of the market (another steal at about $3/person for a full lunch with soup and drinks).

That night, after Paul rejoined the group, we walked to Garibaldi Plaza.  This plaza is known as a nightlife spot where you can hire mariachis and enjoy hanging out with the locals.  Afterward we hit up a restaurant on the way back to our hotel.  Overall, the restaurants have been pretty good, but not as good as the food you can just eat off a food cart.  Although the sanitation may be questionable, there haven't been any complaints about the tastiness, and nobody got sick.  In all, across the course of the trip, we'd estimate that somewhere between 50-75 delicious tacos were consumed... ¡Viva México!

Garibaldi Plaza Mariachi

Día Cinco
For our final day, we woke up early and went straight to Chapultepec Park, where the National Museum of Anthropology is located.  This is one of the best museums we've ever been to.  The museum is huge and the exhibits really showcase the various cultures and achievements of the native peoples of Mexico.  It's a 100% must-see if you should find yourself in Mexico City.

Torre Mayor, the tallest building in Mexico
War Memorial to 6 Young Men Killed in the American Invasion
National Museum of Anthropology
Giant Olmec head in the National Museum of Anthropology
Crowds in Chapultepec Park
After the museum, we had just enough time to get back to the hotel, finish packing, eat some goodbye tacos and make it to the airport in time for our flight.  The flight was way undersold (because it was during the Super Bowl), so everyone got their own row.  David and Christina even got bumped to business class with Henry!  Woo!  Business drunk for the flight home!

Mexico City is definitely underrated as a tourist destination.  Rumors of it being an unsafe, disease-ridden metropolis are just that; rumors.  Don't let these stories deter you from exploring the capital of our neighbor to the south.  Mexico City was a great short vacation.  It's cheap, easy to get to, has wonderful weather, great food, and there are a lot of things to see.