Tuesday, December 10, 2019

Long Weekend in England & Scotland

In early November, I (David) took a four-day-weekend jaunt across the pond to visit my friend Thomas who lives in England. The trip was a bit of a whirlwind with half a day in Manchester, 1.5 days in Edinburgh and another half day in London at the end. I'm generally not a fan of crossing oceans for less than a week's vacation - but this was a special situation - the flight was free (skymiles sale) and I was more focused on visiting with a friend than really accomplishing any sightseeing....so overall I would do something like this again if the opportunity presented itself.

First stop - Manchester! We arrived in the early afternoon, checked into our hotel and wandered around the city center. The Christmas Market had just begun that weekend so there were lots of people meandering around. I really wish we did these in America! There are tons of food vendors with chocolate, booze, and typical Christmas foods. There are also a lot of different Christmas decorations and events to enjoy.

Manchester itself seems like an interesting city. It really grew up in the late 1800s so there are lots of buildings from that time period - not unlike Chicago or Pittsburgh - but with a small older core that you can't see in America. That evening we grabbed dinner and visited a bunch of bars in the gay district. There's one main drag that hosted more than a dozen bars that people seemed to move between. We spent a good while talking with a group of English 20-somethings that were camp counselors in West Virginia. Pretty random. All-in-all a fun Saturday evening/afternoon.

The Christmas Market in Manchester. The weather is typically British.
Inside joke store name... ;) It burns!
Old pub in central Manchester.
Manchester Cathedral...not too impressive on the outside.
Lots of cool late 19th century buildings.
Probably the best meal of my trip...fried gnocchi! I took the opportunity to eat lots of mushrooms since Paul wasn't around.
A bar in Manchester. English bars tend to have a cool cozy interior theme.

The next morning we got up and set out to catch our train to Edinburgh. Unfortunately, our train was cancelled! In all my travels I think this is probably the first time that's ever happened. Luckily, there was another train heading to Edinburgh from Manchester's other train station (about 1 mile away) in a couple hours. We made our way to the that station, stopping for a late breakfast along the way at an Italian cafe nestled in a department store.

The train ride to Edinburgh passed through some lovely English and Scottish countryside. The route passed just east of the esteemed Lake Country - with it's hills and pastures. Not a bad way to spend a couple hours. Since the previous train was cancelled, this train started very full. There weren't enough seats for everyone and a group of middle-aged "Spice Girls" didn't have a seat for about the first hour. They parked themselves on their luggage near the doors and were about the most stereotypical drunk British women you could imagine - heavy northern English accents, short skirts, spilled Prosecco, and lot of profanity. It was like watching a live episode of the Kardashians. Delightful!

We arrived in Edinburgh later than expected, so by the time we reached our hotel (the historic Waldorf Astoria which Thomas was very excited to visit) it was already nearly dark (which happens at this time of year and at this latitude at around 4:15 PM). It was Sunday evening, drizzly, and cold so we wandered around the city center for a bit and found dinner at nice cozy pub/restaurant before turning in for the evening.

Bucolic England near the Lake Country.
Meals in Edinburgh mostly consisted of large pieces of meat (chicken here).
The central Edinburgh train station built in a bit of a gully in the city center.
Lots of cute Scottish streets.

The next morning we wandered around some of the same areas, but this time with more lighting, and visited the free National Museum of Scotland - a hulking confusing mass of buildings regaling visitors with all the highs and lows of Scottish life since prehistoric times. The rooftop terrace provides excellent views over the city center, obscured only by the persistent freezing rain.

Edinburgh Castle from afar.
Victorian stuff abounds.
Breakfast of champions (oatmeal)!
More cute Georgian style streets.
Interesting alleyways galore.
Cathedral in Edinburgh near the castle.
A splash of color is always appreciated in gloomy climes.
Edinburgh from atop the National Museum of Scotland.
This just looked very British to me.
Whiskey!
The local coca-cola replacement. Tasted like Inca-Cola in Peru too (bubble gum).
Fall in Edinburgh.

Edinburgh is a really delightful city. The streets are quaint and full of charm. There are tons of pubs and restaurants and the mass scale of the Georgian architecture makes this city fairly unique. The people here were also very friendly and helpful. I'd recommend a visit in the summer though, when you have less of a chance of it being rainy and freezing cold.

The next morning we set out early again for our train trip back to London. This trip, since it wasn't cut into two, was a very long 4.5 hours on a train. There were some interesting sights along the way though - old English towns, the North Sea and more countryside. When we returned to London, we made our way back to Thomas's flat where we hung out for a bit before going to dinner and calling it a night.

Last meal in London - seafood risotto.

Peace out UK - I'm sure we'll meet again...just maybe not in winter.

Tuesday, November 26, 2019

Little Rock

After a couple of days in Arkansas and Missouri, we spent the last 24 hours of our trip in Arkansas's capital city, Little Rock. We really didn't know much about the city other than it being home to the Clintons, so we were excited to check it out. Paul booked a really nice hotel right in downtown (the Capital Hotel) which opened in 1870, with President U.S. Grant staying as a guest not long thereafter. The hotel opened with indoor plumbing and heating and introduced the country’s first “magnetic annunciator” to call room service. The Capital served as President Bill Clinton’s local headquarters during his tenure as President. It was a really fun historic place to stay. As for the city itself, there's really nothing much going on in downtown Little Rock, especially on a Sunday evening, so we ended up eating in the hotel restaurant.

Lobby of the Capital Hotel. Splendidly maintained.
A very stately building.
The Arkansas River near our hotel.
The old state capitol was across the street. It had a cute fence.


Unfortunately, most of Little Rock looks like this. This tall building was surrounded by surface parking lots on all sides...
There were some nice older buildings around downtown though!
The Capital Hotel restaurant had nice cocktails...
...and decent food.

The next morning we got up early and took a stroll around downtown. We started at the Historic Arkansas Museum, which had some nice exhibits on state history including a fantastic exhibit on the impact of settlers and US policy on native culture that held no punches. The museum includes some outdoor historic buildings which we were unfortunately unable to visit because they were closed for restoration. We walked over to the Clinton Presidential Library, which has neat architecture and a nice setting along the river adjacent to downtown. It had a few neat exhibits, but it's mostly an advertisement for Bill Clinton that doesn't go in to detail about any of the tough spots of his presidency or life. 


Our hotel from the street. It has a cast iron facade.
Yummy nearby donut shop!
David with some donuts.
There's an old trolley running through parts of downtown Little Rock.
An old map in the Historic Arkansas Museum, drawn by a school student.
Exhibits on territorial Arkansas life.
The museum also featured some old cabins - this is all still in downtown Little Rock.
There are a few cool streets-capes in Little Rock.
The park near the Clinton Presidential Library, with an epic bridge in the background.
The library looks a bit like an ark ready to put into the river.
There was an art exhibit on plastic in the oceans at the Library.
Yikes!
Garbage art!
Some of Clinton's memorabilia, including an Atlanta Olympics jacket.

After visiting the Clinton Presidential Library, we took the Arkansas River Trail along the river back towards downtown to visit the Old State House Museum. This museum features exhibits about the State of Arkansas since about the early 1800s. The building itself was constructed in the 1830s, around the time Arkansas received statehood. During the Civil War, when Little Rock was captured by Union troops, the building was used as their headquarters for the state. The building was used for State functions until the new capitol was completed in 1911. Since then the building has served as the Arkansas War Memorial, became the first home of the Arkansas State Police, and held the offices of a number of statewide patriotic organizations.

Scooting down the Arkansas River Trail.
Old Statehouse Museum.
The exhibits were... interesting.
Some rooms are made to look as they did when used by governors in the middle to late 1800s.

After visiting the State House Museum, we collected our car from the hotel and went to the Heights neighborhood for lunch at Heights Taco and Tamale Company. The food here was pretty good and they also had a big cocktail menu. This neighborhood is about five miles from downtown Little Rock and seemed a bit more lively with a slight hipster influence.

After lunch we wrapped up our time in Little Rock by visiting the current State Capitol (something we always do when visiting new capital cities) and then went to Central Little Rock High School to visit the National Park Site commemorating the 1957 crisis over desegregation of public schools.The museum seemed recently updated and housed really excellent exhibits on segregation, civil rights and the events that lead to the 1957 crisis. 

The Heights street scene. Reminds us of the Virginia Highland neighborhood in Atlanta.
Over-the-top cocktail.
Solid texmex food. 
Current Arkansas Capitol - built in 1911.
Looks like the capitol in DC.
Rotunda
Lots of marble (and fake marble).
The Arkansas House.
The NPS site commemorating integration and the Little Rock Nine.
Little Rock has a few interesting sights, but overall is a sleepy capital city. It's easy enough to combine it with Hot Springs for a nice weekend trip.