The Trouble with Utah Beer

When I told my friends I was going to Salt Lake City for work, several of them mentioned the burgeoning beer scene in the city. New breweries were popping up and new beer bars were expanding their selection. I did indeed have some good beer in Utah. The trouble is, conservative laws in Utah are a severe detriment to the craft beer industry. I'm used to restrictive beer laws. Michigan, where I grew up, is known as a very beer-friendly state, but they still can't sell alcohol before noon on Sundays. In Indiana, where I went to grad school, they can't sell to-go beer at all on Sundays, including growlers from brewpubs. In Georgia, where I currently live, there are a number of restrictive laws, limiting aspects such as Sunday sales, alcohol percentage, and breweries' ability to sell direct to consumers.

And then there's Utah. It takes beer laws to a whole new level. In just my short time in the state, I noticed a number of bizarre laws. First, the limit for alcohol percentage for tap beers is 4% by volume (ABV), or roughly 3.2% by weight. To me, this is the biggest hurdle. When I travel, I love to try limited release brews, which are usually only on draft. The 4% law really limits breweries' ability to make experimental or one-off brews, since anything over 4% would need to be bottled, creating significant additional expense. None of the bars and brewpubs I went to had more than a dozen or so taps - with the alcohol restriction, it just doesn't make sense to have a huge tap list. Anheuser Busch can't even sell regular Bud Light on tap. That's right, Bud Light is too strong for Utah beer laws. They have to brew a weaker version to sell in Utah. Similarly, the local Wasatch Brewery has to brew two version of their popular Polygamy Porter - a 4% version and a 6% version that can only be sold in bottles or shipped out of state. This 4% rule also applies to grocery stores - so forget trying to pick up a six pack when you're out shopping. You'll have to visit a state-run liquor store to get anything stronger.

On top of the ABV rule, there's also a limit on beer sampling. You can only have two sample size beers at once, so the concept of a flight of local beers doesn't exist. It's a completely arbitrary law, because once you finish your two samples you can order two more - but try that in a crowded bar.

Finally, strict rules on alcohol licenses impact the ability of bars and breweries to sell beer. An "alcohol establishment" license allows operation as a bar, but is harder to get. Some licenses require the purchase of food. For example, if you visit the tiny Epic Brewing, you can only drink there if you order an entree. The law states that "alcohol beverage service in a licensed restaurant requires that you order food with your drink, that your beverage be delivered to your table or counter by your server, and that you consume your drink at or near the table or counter." And don't think that you can have a beer at the game either - state law prohibits alcohol in stadiums and parks. These arbitrary and restrictive laws are a huge impediment to the development of a craft beer scene in Salt Lake City.

All that being said, I still visited several great beer establishments and had a number of good beers. A craft beer scene is indeed emerging in Salt Lake City, but the state government is doing it no favors. A few pictures of the beers and places I experienced:

Beer issue of the local alternative magazine

A 4% brew on tap at the Beerhive

Go with bottles at the bar if you want more variety

Visiting the Wasatch Brewery in Park City

A sample of the 4% version of Polygamy Porter

Bought this in a grocery store, so it's limited to 4%

One of the best Utah beers I tried

Two sample limit! This is at Avenues Proper brewpub. Some nice sour beers.

A Uinta beer at an outdoor event. The wooden "roof" above makes this legal.

A canned beer just to mix things up

Another good Utah beer