Tuesday, November 26, 2019

Arkansas and Missouri - Hot Springs and Coasters

This fall we decided to take a long weekend trip to Arkansas to ride some roller coasters, visit a national park, and explore some cities we'd never been to. We planned a route that would take us to Little Rock, Hot Springs, and over the border in Missouri to Branson. The first half of our trip was a lot of driving and roller coasters, with some history and natural beauty in between.

We arrived in the evening at the Bill and Hillary Clinton airport in Little Rock, which locals call the Hill-Billy airport (Ha!). We immediately hit the road for the 3.5 hour drive up to Branson, Missouri, home to Silver Dollar City. We got in after midnight, and woke up early to get to the park before 9AM opening.

Silver Dollar City is easily one of the best amusement parks in the US. It's beautifully wooded, and sits on top of a huge cave, which you can tour. It has a wide variety of attractions, including a few world-class roller coasters. We spent a few hours riding and enjoying the park, before leaving and getting the two other alpine coaster credits in the area. Branson might be a giant tacky tourist trap, but Silver Dollar City is a star attraction and worth the trip.

Dramatic Ozark setting for the roller coasters.
All gussied-up for halloween!
Paul at the best ride in the park, Outlaw Run.
A wild mullet sighting. Voluminous. 
David thought this shirt perfectly describes Paul.


Pawnee harvest festival! Where's Lil Sebastian?
Famous cinnamon bread! You can get this at Dollywood too.
They have elaborate decorations for every holiday.
The nearby alpine coaster at Branson Sawmill features two lift hills.
And another credit, the Runaway Mountain Coaster. One of the best I've ridden!
Surprisingly good tamales at the Pickin Porch Grill.

After leaving Branson, we made our way Southwest back in to Arkansas. We stopped in Eureka Springs, a cute historic town with a nice touristy downtown. They have a shuttle route system, so we parked our car just outside of town at the visitor center and hopped aboard. The city surprised us. It has a lot of historic homes and a compact hilly downtown. We did a little shopping and walked around a bit before going back to our car and continuing south. We arrived in Hot Springs in the evening, and had dinner at Superior Bathhouse Brewery, which is inside a historic bathhouse from 1916.

David in downtown Eureka Springs.
Sunset views in the Ozark National Forest.
Superior Bathhouse Brewery.

The next morning, we explored downtown Hot Springs and the national park. It's a really unique and slightly odd place to visit. The national park runs along the main street through town, and incorporates a series of historic bathhouses fed by the springs. Behind the bathhouses is a forested hill with paths and hiking trails. On the other side of the road are early 20th century commercial buildings with shopping and restaurants. People used to visit the town for the "healing" properties of the hot springs. An entire luxury industry sprung up around spa treatments to mimic contemporary European style and sophistication... but in rural Arkansas.

Trail through Hot Springs National Park.
You can see some spots where the water still bubbles up.
Misty
Paul checking out the Springs.
Art deco buildings in downtown. Unfortunately the biggest one is empty.

The National Park Service retained a couple of the old spas as historic monuments to Hot Spring's past. The ones they control have been mostly left as they were - with only minor modifications to protect the property. There are a couple spas still in operation today that cater to tourists. These are supposedly more modern on the inside. We only toured one of the historic NPS baths, so they may seem a little grimy. The exhibits paint a picture of sophistication and wealth from early 20th century patrons. Overall, an interesting National Park worth checking out if you're in Arkansas (it's not far from Little Rock).

Bathhouse row.
Medieval torture chamber or early 20th century shower? You decide.
It may look gross now, but at one point it was posh.
One of the historic bath houses.
A salon for resting between treatments.
The Medical Arts building is magnificent, but no longer occupied. It would make a great hotel.
The town of Hot Springs has some random interesting street art.

In the afternoon we went to Magic Springs, an amusement park just outside of town. It's a mid-sized park that was better than expected, but doesn't have any particularly noteworthy coasters. Paul was still happy to mark it off his list, as it was one of the larger coaster count parks remaining in North America.

Jello shots in an amusement park? That's a first.
Pacman Halloween decorations!
X-coaster was Paul's 750th roller coaster.
Obligatory Paul on kiddie coaster photo.
Magic Spring's main lake. It's a pretty nice park overall.

After leaving Magic Springs we had lunch at a music-themed pizzeria and brewpub called SQZBX. The beer was nothing special, but the food was good. We made a quick stop back at Magic Springs to ride a coaster that doesn't open until later in the day, and then drove south to Garven Woodland Gardens, a botanical garden on a peninsula in the Ouachita river. We didn't actually go in to the gardens, but instead visited Anthony Chapel, a spectacular building in the woods.

Craft beer in Arkansas was pretty meh...
...the pizza was good though!
Anthony Chapel.


Interior shot. We had a short window of time to look inside between events.
The lighting here was really great.
The chapel's bell-tower was also fantastic.

After visiting the chapel, we hit the road for Little Rock, where we spent about 24 hours before our flight home to Atlanta. We'll cover that in the next post.

Saturday, November 16, 2019

Montreal Part Deux - Coasters & Soccer

After spending our first day walking all around Montreal, our rainy second day started with brunch at L'Avenue, which was delicious and over-the-top. Because of the weather we decided to visit a museum, and walked to the Redpath Museum. It's a small but interesting natural history museum in a historic building on the campus of McGill University. The exhibits are a bit dated but the museum is free and the architecture is impressive. We spent a little time at a cafe downtown to wait out some of the rain before heading to St. Helen's island to visit La Ronde amusement park.

Rainy morning in Montreal.
Way too much food!
Banana nutella french toast with coconut and bourbon maple syrup.
Fall was just arriving.
The front of the Redpath Museum.
View of downtown Montreal from the steps of the museum.
The main exhibit hall.
An advertisement for our game!
The biosphere museum on the island, not far from La Ronde.

La Ronde isn't a great park, but it was the largest amusement park in the western hemisphere that Paul hadn't visited yet. Cross this one off the list! It does have a fun Batman clone and a pretty good Goliath coaster. We got the credits and caught an Uber back across the river to the Hochelaga-Maisonneuve neighborhood, where we stopped by a retro video game store and got a snack at the marche maisonnueve. This market/foodhall is in some new buildings next door to the historic 1912 market building. From there we took the metro part way back to our AirBnb, and walked through the gay neighborhood, which is quite large in Montreal. We rested for a bit before dinner.

Rainy day means no crowds!
Paul at La Ronde.
The Olympic stadium tower looming in the distance.
The old market building.
Inside the new market.
Rainbow flags.
Portuguese chicken for dinner.

The next morning we were greeted with sunny clear skies, so we decided to walk up to the viewpoint at the top of Mont Royal. Along the way we grabbed a coffee from the tiny and adorable Oh My Deer cafe, then continued to the mountain up winding trails. It was pretty crowded because of the great weather, but it was an enjoyable little hike and we were rewarded with amazing views across the city.


Montreal's row-houses and apartments have a lot of winding stairs.
A back alley.
Montreal also has a lot of funky architecture and murals.
It's Paul's store!
Lets climb up there!
Paul on the trail.
David at the top, featuring sun rays.
Great view of the city!
Walking back down.

We walked back down the mountain toward the city, and walked a bit around downtown and St Catherine's street, eventually making our way to a restaurant called Arepera for lunch. They had good arepas and fresh fruit juices. We made a quick stop back at our Airbnb to change and get warmer clothing for the soccer game.

We walked by the museum of fine arts but didn't have time to go inside.
A restaurant street in downtown.
Downtown Montreal.
The Edward VII monument in Phillip's Square.
Pork arepa!

We took the train to the main event of the weekend: Atlanta United vs. Montreal Impact. Montreal's soccer stadium is in a multi-use stadium area that includes the 1976 Olympic stadium. The soccer stadium isn't the nicest, but maybe we're just spoiled by Mercedes Benz stadium. The game ended in a tie, but we had a great time. At the end of the game the Montreal supporters group invited all of the Atlanta United fans over and we had fun singing together. Class act, Montreal!

Under the stands in Stade Saputo.
Ready for the game.
Find Paul!

On the way home we had a late dinner at Co Ut, a Vietnamese restaurant near our AirBnB. The next morning we went to the airport for our flight connecting in Toronto. Our plane was a WestJet (code-shared with Delta) turbo prop! As we started going down the runway to take off, the plane suddenly decelerated and we pulled over to the side. Turns out there was a problem with the front tire and they had to abort take off. The flight ended up getting canceled, but Delta re-booked us on a direct flight to Atlanta and we ended up arriving at about the same time we were originally scheduled. Yay for Delta customer service!

Montreal is a great city and should be on your travel radar. It's very accessible, but has an international multi-lingual flair, walkable neighborhoods, and a variety of attractions.

Fancy spring rolls.
Our last meal in Montreal.
Been a while since we flew on one of these....
Au revoir, Montreal!