Wednesday, March 27, 2024

Singapore - Gardens by the Bay, Multiculturalism & Peranakan Food!

On our next morning in Singapore, Paul had a bit of an adventure trying to get some iced coffee. Google maps doesn't seem to have accurate opening times in Singapore - the first place was supposed to open at 7:30am, but was closed. The second place only took cash. The third option was somewhere in a shopping center and he couldn't find it. Finally, the fourth place, Sanger, was open and had iced coffee, but were out of ice. Oh well, cool(ish) iced coffee! Luckily the area near our hotel is so densely packed that there are always backup options. Meanwhile, David was just hanging out in the hotel wondering where Paul went while watching TikTok videos.

The night before, we made reservations to visit some of the sights at the Gardens by the Bay resort area. Breaking the trend, we took a taxi to Gardens by the Bay. Transit is great in Singapore, but for whatever reason, this area is just easier to get by car, at least from our hotel (since the bay is in the way). Luckily taxis are relatively affordable and easy to book on your phone through an app called Grab (which we used in Malaysia too). It's really a breeze to get around the island.

First stop was the famous Supertree Grove. We started at the OCBC skyway right after they opened at 9am. It's a really cool path suspended between the giant fake trees, with great views of the surrounding gardens and the Singapore skyline. From there we walked around the garden a bit, meandering through the paths toward the Cloud Forest dome. This was a spectacular place - one of the coolest things we saw on our trip. It's a huge glass and steel building covering 2 acres, with a cool-weather rainforest "mountain" at the center. You ascend to the top of the mountain, and make your way back down past various plants and a 115 foot tall waterfall. Every few hours they have a "misting time" where the whole place is shrouded in mist, and we saw this at 10am. We spent over an hour here, admiring the plants, the architecture, and the views.

More cool architecture near our hotel. The middle space is filled with plants.

Gardens by the Bay is iconic.

Amazing views.

The perks of reserving at opening time - no crowds!

More people arriving on the skyway, with the cloud forest dome in the background.

Marina Bay Sands hotel from the skyway.

David with the huge waterfall.

The structure inside the cloud forest dome is astounding, with pathways winding through the air.

A Chihuly glass flower exhibit.

Taking the path through the sky.

So. Many. Flowers!

"Misting time" was really cool.

An exhibit on climate change in the base of the cloud forest mountain.

We continued exploring Gardens by the Bay, visiting the impressive Flower Dome right next to the Cloud Forest Dome. The Flower Dome has a variety of ecosystems, including Mediterranean, California, and desert. There were still lunar new year decorations as well, including a couple of cool dragons. FYI - many of the sights at Gardens by the Bay are on separate tickets with timed entries. If you want to do everything it adds up quick. We did the main attractions and felt they were worthwhile.


A sculptural dragon near the entrance of the flower dome.

Again, coming just after lunar new year was a great idea!

Impressive structure and impressive plants.

True!

Overview of the flower dome with lunar new year decorations.

It's hard to do these spaces justice. So pretty!

By now we were hungry for lunch, so we walked to the nearby Satay by the Bay, an outdoor hawker center. We had satay (hey, it's in the name of the place, we had to!), BBQ stingray, and chicken dumplings. The BBQ stingray is a local food and had a mild flavor. We enjoyed a nice cool breeze as we ate.

We continued walking east. This area of Singapore is pretty quiet. There are future development plans, but for now it's mainly the far edge of a touristy area. We went to marina barrage, which is a large dam separating the bay from the ocean, essentially creating a large freshwater reservoir. The large pump building has a sustainability museum (which was unfortunately temporarily closed, perhaps for an event or minor construction), and a rooftop deck with amazing views. This is part of Singapore's sea level rise planning - and is designed to keep back water to prevent flooding.


Looking back toward part of the Singapore skyline.

We kept our eyes peeled for otters, but didn't see any.

Starting with some dumplings.

The namesake satay.

BBQ sambal stingray! First time we've had stingray. Would have again!

No otters, but we did see this huge monitor lizard.

The "marina barrage," a dam, with the salty ocean water on the right.

Panoramic view from the rooftop park of the marina barrage building.

After lunch and strolling around the marina barrage, we took a taxi to explore a new neighborhood, the Bugis Street shopping area. This is kind of a market/mall area, and we shopped around for gifts. We then walked around the nearby pedestrian area, and watched the crowds visiting the Kwan Im Thong Hood Cho Temple (a Buddhist temple). We briefly went inside the temple, and also checked out the Sri Krishnan Temple (a Hindu temple) next door. The contrast in architecture was striking and is something that makes Singapore feel unique and interesting. This whole area was very lively and vibrant, a pedestrianized area with tents and vendors. We saw a lot of people buying flowers and incense for the temple. 

We continued walking to yet another religious building, the Abdul Gafoor mosque. We couldn't go in due to Friday prayers, but we took in the architecture before continuing to the Indian heritage center. This was a nice modern museum that focused on the history of and current contributions of Indian immigrants to Singapore. There were several small groups of school children on field trips. We especially liked the Kerala/Malayalam exhibit, since we have a friend from that region. Leaving the museum we wandered the surrounding streets ("Little India") for a bit.


Hawker Centre cultural mural at Bugis street.

The Kwan Im Thong Hood Cho Temple had vibrant tiles.

The crowded entrance to the temple.

Very different style of art and architecture right next door.

The main street in the area was really lively.

Checking out the mosque, which was very fanciful.

More of the traditional Singapore architecture.

Exhibit in the Indian Heritage Center.

After exploring Chinese, Muslim and Indian history in one neighborhood, we took a bus back toward our hotel, stopping at Singapore's famous Merlion. It's the official mascot of the country, and the large statue/fountain opened in 1972. The area was very busy, with crowds of people taking pictures. Afterwards, we ran into a 7-11 for some drinks and got some fancy cakes from our hotel lobby to take up to our room and relax before our dinner reservation.


Passing by the durian-inspired esplanade theatres.

Famous view of the Merlion and skyline. Our hotel is the red/white short building at right.

Girl, same.

Paul's less "creative" photo.

David with the new year bears in our hotel lobby.

We didn't find the cake store in our hotel until the last day. Which was probably for the best because they were amazing and we can only eat so much!


The last main type of cuisine recommended to us was Peranakan. This food is a mix of Malay and Chinese from early migrants to the region. We made reservations at National Kitchen by Violet Oon, which has traditional Peranakan foods and is located inside the National Gallery. We really enjoyed our meal here and it's a great place to try a variety of local foods in a high-end atmosphere. It was a great way to wrap up our final day in Singapore.


The National Gallery Singapore (former supreme court building).

Kuay pie tee, a "top hat" filled with turnip and bamboo and topped with a shrimp. Where can we get these in Atlanta!? They were delicious.

A feast of local flavors, including beef rendang, sambal eggplant, roti prata, and nasi kuning rice.

Saturday morning we got up and took the train to the airport to catch our very short flight to Kuala Lumpur. While at the airport we did a little Singapore souvenir shopping and had coffee and a snack at the Hainan Story bakery while wandering around. Again, this airport is really thoughtfully laid out with lots of pretty gardens and interactive exhibits. Our only complaint is that security is not centralized, but instead managed at each gate, so it's a bit awkward to line up for security to enter a glass room with nothing in it before boarding your flight. 

Overall, Singapore is a great place to visit. The people here are interesting and warm and there are many fun things for visitors to see and do. The common use of English and an amazing transit system makes getting around the city-state all the easier. Singapore is very multicultural, which is a nice break from many East Asian countries like Korea and Japan which act and behave like a human monoculture. The mix of people (Chinese, Malay, Indian and foreign workers/visitors) has created a young country with a really interesting melting pot of ideas, sights, and amazing food. We'd definitely come back! Next stop, Malaysia!


Pretty good for an airport breakfast! Beats stupid US airports.

Another really cool area of the Singapore airport.

Monday, March 25, 2024

Singapore - Roller Coasters, Museums, and More Food

We started our next day in Singapore at Ya Kun Kaya Toast, in One Raffles Place near our hotel. Kaya toast is a classic Singaporean breakfast, consisting of toast with butter and coconut jam, with runny eggs. Most people around us were mixing in some soy sauce and either drinking the runny egg/soy mixture or dipping toast into it. Runny egg isn't on our typical menu, but the saltiness of the egg/soy combo was good when you dip the peanut butter toast into it. We'd recommend trying this dish.


Kaya toast breakfast.

After breakfast we took the metro and then a skyride to Sentosa Island. This is a tourist island, filled with family attractions, hotels, and beaches. The big draw for us (well, for Paul), was Universal Studios Singapore. The park opened at 10am, but the front part of the park and a few rides opened an hour early if you bought entry tickets in advance. We arrived shortly after 9AM, rode a few rides, and were ready for the remainder of the park to open at 10am. The park was not too busy yet, and Paul was able to ride all six coasters fairly quickly - we were ready to leave the park before 11:30am. It was getting pretty crowded by then, with a lot of people coming in to the park just as we were leaving. Overall, this is a relatively weak park, especially for a Universal park. It has a few fun rides, and the Shrek area is nicely themed, but it's small and doesn't really have any standout attractions. A large "Minion land" expansion is under construction that will help to round out this park.

Passing over a cruise ship on the skyride to Sentosa Island.

Hello, Singapore. Also, yay Pokémon-themed transit!

Lots of new architecture around Singapore was visible from the skyride.

Fun new year theming in Universal Studios and throughout Singapore in general.

Universal Studios has a covered main street, thanks to the intense rain and sun in Singapore.

"Far Far Away," the Shrek-based land, is quite impressive.

Battlestar Galactica is a cool looking coaster.

Leaving Sentosa Island, instead of taking the skyride back we took a monorail, which was much faster. We hopped back on the metro and took it to Orchard Road, Singapore's famous shopping area. We had a bubble tea at Hollin in Plaza Singapura. We then crossed the street over to the National Museum of Singapore. This was a nice museum, with a great exhibit on Singapore history. They even had a little stand where you could send out Singapore postcards - so some of our friends and family got some snail mail!

Leaving the museum we were hungry, so we hopped on a bus to the golden mile food centre for a late lunch. Singapore is full of hawker centers, so we made sure to eat at several of them during our trip. We had some Hainanese chicken and rice at Da Po Hainanese Chicken Rice & Curry Chicken Noodle, which is in the Michelin Guide. Hainanese chicken is an iconic Singaporean dish which likely has comfort food value to our friends...but honestly it's just boiled chicken with rice so feel free to give it a pass.

Another lunar new year display outside a metro station.

The impressive historic building housing the museum.

They had an exhibit about transit in Singapore.

Facts. Better yet, just don't bother!

One of the exhibits on early history of the island.

View from a pedestrian bridge near the golden mile food centre.

A simple but yummy lunch of Hainanese Chicken and rice.

Singapore does not mess around.

After lunch, we hopped on another bus (again - the bus system in Singapore is comprehensive and super easy to use) to the Sultan Mosque. Singapore is around 18% Muslim, so there are several mosques around the city, and this is one of the more impressive ones. Completed in 1932, it has a very fantastical design. The inside is more plain, but still worth a look. We were wearing shorts, so they gave us big potato-sack style skirts to cover up.

The nearby haji lane is a busy tourist shopping and food street. It's a little tacky but has nice architecture and people watching, and we found a cute shop to do some souvenir and gift shopping.


Sultan mosque's golden domes and intricate architecture.

Super pretty mosque.

It's a colorful and lively neighborhood.

Doing some shopping on haji lane.

We took another bus to our next stop, the City Gallery Singapore. This is a small but interesting series of free exhibits on the city planning of Singapore. There was a special temporary exhibit on preparing the city for extreme heat, which was right up Paul's alley. They also had some cool exhibits incorporating technology that let you explore sustainability through touch screens and projections. The highlight was a large room-sized model of Singapore that included proposed skyscrapers and development.

We then took another bus in the late afternoon (sensing a theme here?) for a snack and drink from market street hawker centre near our hotel. It was mostly closed (since it's mainly a lunch place), but there were still some open stalls. David got cheese fries and Paul got a calamansi lime juice. 


The large model of Singapore.

Learning about sustainability in Singapore.

37 bus routes from one bus stop! We love the Singapore bus system.

Hawker!

Inside the new/trendy market street hawker stalls.

After relaxing at the hotel, taking a shower, and collecting some laundry we had sent out, we walked along the river to dinner. We made a reservation at 海底捞 Haidilao Hot Pot at Clarke Quay. This is a popular Chinese hot pot chain, and it had good reviews so we were excited to try something a little different. Clarke Quay has a touristy, vegas-like vibe. The restaurant was big and busy with families and groups. We had two hot pots, one with spicy szechuan broth and the other with thai tom yum broth. Several tables were celebrating birthdays, so we got to hear the restaurant's happy birthday song a few times. After dinner, we detoured slightly and had some ice cream at dopa dopa, which was quite tasty. Once again the streets were very lively with lots of restaurants and bars overflowing onto the streets.


Ready for hot pot!

Yum! Hotpot!

Yet another calamansi lime drink for Mr. Schramm!

Ice cream for dessert.