Tuesday, March 17, 2020

Exploring Edmonton

Last year our good friends Janice and Peter moved to Edmonton. We were in their wedding, visited them when they lived in Oxford, London, and Sweden, and traveled with them in places like Greece, Iowa, and Italy, so we immediately hatched a plan to go visit them in the frozen north. And what better time to journey to Canada's northernmost major city than February?

Our flight connected in Toronto, and we arrived in Edmonton at night. With the time change we were exhausted, so we hung out for just a bit before going to bed. We set out the next morning for the Old Strathcona Farmers Market, an indoor Saturday market. Strathcona is a cool area of town south of the river, packed with restaurants and shops. The market was surprisingly busy for winter. There were a lot of pre-made products (jams, soaps, jerky, etc) and local foods. After taking in the atmosphere for a bit, we had brunch at a nearby restaurant called Meat.

We walked back toward downtown across the High Level Bridge, which has great views across the city. It's also extremely cold and windy - probably the coldest we felt the whole weekend.

A huge mural in Strathcona.
Inside the market.
Sometimes we're still in middle school.
Walking the snowy path high above the river. It was cold!
View of downtown Edmonton.
Before walking across the bridge.
A little bit of unfrozen river.

Our next stop was the Alberta Legislature Building, where we went on a guided tour. The sandstone building was constructed after Alberta became a province in 1905. The tour was nice, and covered a bit about the history of the building and the province. We also learned that Canadian provinces have non-elected lieutenant governors (which they pronounced "left-tenant") that represent Queen Elizabeth. Fun fact of the tour: there are five 80+ year old palm trees inside the dome, and nobody knows where they came from. The rumor is they're a gift from California, but when asked that state denies it.

Next we walked a bit of the river trail, and took the automated funicular up the hillside back in to downtown. We made a quick stop at Craft Beer Market for some drinks before returning to Janice and Peter's apartment. We finished off the night with a lovely dinner at Woodwork.

The sandstone exterior of the legislature building.
The inside is nice, but a little plain.
One of the former lieutenant governors.
Palm trees in the dome!
The snowy grounds.
Nothing to see here, just David on a weird bench.
Inside the funicular.
Going up!
Blood red falling ice sign.
Downtown Edmonton.
Inside Craft Beer Market.

On our second day in Edmonton, we started out ice skating in front of City Hall. There's a rink in the plaza, and skate rental is free! Since it was early, cold, and snowing it wasn't busy and we had plenty of space to skate around. This was David's first time ever ice skating, and he did well! After briefly visiting city hall, we walked a couple of blocks to the Royal Alberta Museum, and spent a few hours exploring the science and history exhibits. It's a large museum with a lot of great exhibits. By now we were starving, and walked a short distance to Chinatown for lunch at 97 Hot Pot. It was perfect on a chilly day.

The view from Janice and Peter's apartment.
David on the ice.
Peter showing off his skills in the background.
Goofing around in front of city hall.
The interior of city hall.
Albertosaurus skeleton in the museum.
A big exhibit about the early history of the area.
Hot pot lunch. Yum!

After lunch we walked around the "ice district," a new area with a hockey arena, casino, and giant skyscrapers with hotels and condos. It's a nice area but was quiet because it was a weekend day without a hockey game. We walked past a street known as the "neon museum" where old neon signs from around the city are attached to a wall, and then stopped by McEwan University, where our friend Janice works. Finally, we had some happy hour drinks at Campio Brewery, which had our favorite beer of the trip.

Not the best face...
The two tallest buildings in Edmonton, finished in 2019, tower above Rogers Place.
Neon museum during the day.
Janice's work!
Janice and Paul at Campio Brewing. Great beer!
Walking back by the neon museum at night.

On our final day in Edmonton we took an Uber to West Edmonton Mall to visit Galaxyland, an indoor amusement park. It's home to Mindbender, the world's tallest indoor roller coaster. Paul had a great time riding, and Peter took a spin too. The mall is ginormous - the largest in North America. It was busy because it was such a cold day. We spent some time walking around, people watching, and checking out a game in the full sized hockey rink in the middle. We had some lunch before taking the bus back to Janice and Peter's, where we relaxed, played some games, and finished the night with dinner and drinks at Beer Revolution.

Ready for some fun!
Mindbender is intense.

The drops on Mindbender. Huge for an indoor coaster!
Peter and Paul in the front seat.
Paul getting those coaster credits.


Lunch time in the mall at a British restaurant.
There was a junior hockey game happening inside the mall.
Beer Revolution

That night, the temperature dipped to some of the coldest we've ever experienced. The Edmonton airport got down to -18°F. David brought his own thermometer from home, and recorded -12°F at Janice and Peter's apartment, so he now considers that his coldest temperature every experienced (beating out 5°F in Atlanta in February 2014). Fun fact, at around -5°F to -10°F ice starts forming on your nose hairs when you breath deeply. It was a little alarming...but was kinda fun too.


Goodbye, Edmonton!

We had a great time visiting our friends and exploring the northernmost large city in Canada. Now we need to come back in summer and go visit the Canadian Rockies and Calgary!

Friday, February 28, 2020

Adios Oaxaca! Pyramids, Market Stroll, and Lucha Libre

After spending several days in Oaxaca, for our last full day most of our time was spent outside the city at two nearby attractions - the historic ruins of Monte Alban, and the huge Sunday market in Tlacolula.

We started the day around the kitchen table with some great pastries our friends picked up from Pan: AM. We had arranged with our AirBnB owner to get a driver for the day. It is possible to get to the ruins and the market by mini-bus, but they're in opposite directions and we wanted the flexibility and convenience that comes with a personal driver. Our driver, Hector, was great. He didn't speak English, but we managed and even had some conversations about sports teams in Atlanta.

We went straight to the ruins before the day warmed up too much. There's no shade, and we read the morning is the best time to go, and we second that advice. Monte Alban is a vast complex of ruins, a UNESCO world heritage site built by the Zapotec people and occupied from about 500BCE to 500CE. We spent a couple of hours walking around the impressive ruins.

The courtyard of our AirBnB, complete with weird tree.
A ballcourt. Those aren't bleachers, but were originally smooth surfaces the ball would hit.
The vast central yard.
View towards Oaxaca. Unfortunately it was hazy.
Carvings in the rock.
More carvings on the observatory, showing vanquished enemies.
The giant set of stairs up to the south platform.
Panoramic view from the top of the south platform.
Cactus and a pyramid!
A large pyramid on top of the south platform.
Looking out across the courtyard form the north platform.
Our group!
Tree pose with a tree. I know, original.

After leaving Monte Alban, Hector took us to the Tlacolula Sunday market, about an hour drive to the east. It's a huge market that takes over the whole center of the city, with blocks and blocks of clothes, food, and a variety of goods for sale. Most of the market is just set up along the streets, but the permanent installation in the middle has a large hall famous for smoked meats. Hector took us to his favorite little stall, where we all had goat soup and beer.

David looking out at the agave fields.
Part of the market, which stretched on an on and on.
The church in the center of town, right next to the covered market.
The inside of the church was over the top.
Part of the covered market. Pick some meat, grill it up!
Colorful flags and a decorative goat head.
Paul with goat soup!
David at lunch.
The place for chilis!
Selling veggies in the market.
Smoky hall of grilled meat.

After eating and walking around for a while, we went back to the car and started back toward Oaxaca. On the way we made a brief stop in the small but cute center of El Tule. There's not much to it, but it's a pleasant stop and has a ginormous tree, which some claim is the widest tree on earth.


The center of El Tule, with the church and the huge tree on the left.

Back in Oaxaca we relaxed for a bit then visited the inside of the Templo de Santo Domingo de Guzman. This is the church that we saw a lot of weddings in front of the past few days. The inside is impressive, with loads of intricate decoration. Next we continued walking south of the central district to grab a drink before our big plans for the night - a lucha libre match! We found a hole in the wall bar called Bony's and enjoyed a couple of drinks.

Inside Santo Domingo.
Dramatic lighting from the windows.
The main dome.
A neat building - Oaxaca has a few gems like this.
Owl art.
Looks like Cuba!
Drinks at Bony's!

We made our way to San Francisco arena, a small indoor facility on the south side of the city center for some good old fashioned Mexican wrestling. We saw the event advertised on posters around town. Lucha libre is over-the-top, scripted wrestling. We were surprised how much the wrestlers went in to the audience - at one point a whole row of people in seats was taken out by a wrestler being thrown out of the ring! We went to lucha libre in Mexico city, which was very different. In Oaxaca it was a smaller affair but with a lot of audience interaction, while in Mexico city it was in a giant arena and was more like watching a game. Lucha libre is definitely an interesting cultural experience.

They had 6-packs of beer for sale. Of course we got one.
There was an over-the-top gay wrestler named Rasputin, who was teamed up with a police wrestler. They won!
The crowd watching the wrestling.

We had to leave a bit early from lucha libre to walk to our dinner reservations at Origen. We had a really good meal here, probably our second favorite place in Oaxaca behind Los Danzantes. Great high-end Mexican food and excellent service. We ended the busy day with a leisurely walk back to our Airbnb.

A delicious cocktail.
Lots of delicious fancy-looking food.
Duck mole dish.
Super fancy dessert.
A cool door on our walk home.
After a short night of sleep, we woke up before dawn to go to the airport, and bid farewell to Oaxaca. We hope we'll be back to Mexico soon!

Flying over volcanoes!
The outskirts of Mexico City.
Flying over more cool geography.