Kaua'i - Of Canyons and Coastlines

After recovering from our 8 mile hike on the Kalalau trail with a good night's sleep, we spent some more time exploring the north shore of Kaua'i. First, we went to look for some beaches recommended by our guide books in the Princeville area, just to the east of Hanalei Bay. On the way it sprinkled lightly and we saw a pretty double rainbow. The beach we went down to was called the Sealodge Beach. We had to hike about a quarter of a mile down a muddy little trail to get down to the beach, which was secluded and quiet.

First (and only) rainbow of the trip besides the one on every Hawaiian License Plate

Sealodge Beach has some nice shade trees, and reefs just offshore

There were some large rays in the water near the beach

After relaxing at the beach for a while, we went on a boat tour of the Na Pali coast. The sun was shining and it was a beautiful afternoon. We had seen the Na Pali coast from the Kalalau Trail the day before, but we wanted to experience it from a distance on the water. The Na Pali coast is epic and an absolute must for anyone visiting Hawai'i. The trip also included about an hour of snorkeling. The usual snorkeling spot was murky from high surf the last few days, so the guides brought us to a backup (Tunnels Reef). Overall, the snorkeling was just so-so, but we did see a sea turtle! The highlight of the boat ride was the striking views of the amazing Na Pali coast.

David soaking up the sun. Atlanta-based farmer tan beware!

Na Pali Coast. Soaring green mountains above slivers of sandy beach.

Most of the coast is sheer cliff that goes down into the sea

Seas were still a bit rough today, but nothing like they can get in the winter we're told

There are caves along the coast (some from old lava tubes) and our boat backed into several of them. This one had a waterfall through a skylight!

More of the beautiful Na Pali coast

A braided waterfall and a stone arch. There were a lot of interesting formations like this.

The rugged coastline stretches into the distance

Beautiful scenery near the end of the Na Pali coast - where clouds move in over the valleys most afternoons.

The rock formation up the slope is called "the cathedral" for obvious reasons. Bonus waterfall and sandy beach.

After the boat tour we took a scenic drive along the north shore of the island to look at the Kilauea Lighthouse. We passed some taro fields and grabbed some roasted chicken to take back and eat for dinner.

Kaua'i is filled with feral chicken. They start cock-a-doodle-dooing at 4:30 AM. We ate one of his friends for dinner.

Taro fields near Hanalei Bay

Kilauea Lighthouse on the northernmost point of Kaua'i

For our last day on Kaua'i we took a road trip to the Waimea Canyon. The island is really pretty small, but since there is no road through the Na Pali Coast we had to drive about 345 degrees around the island to reach the canyon. The canyon is an unexpected sight in Hawaii - with red dirt walls it's a bit reminiscent of scenery you'd see in the desert southwest. Only dashes of green and a waterfall here and there hint that you're still in the tropics. The views over the canyon are magnificent.

Just north of the canyon is the Koke'e State Park which gives you a glimpse into the Kalalau valley from the top. There is an extensive system of trails on Kaua'i, especially near the canyon and along the road ridge above the Kalalau valley. We were a bit burnt out from the hike a couple days earlier so we only went about 1 mile down the Pihea Trail to get some vantages down into the valley.

Waimea Canyon, the "Grand Canyon of the Pacific"

There is much less rain on this side of the island, in the shadow of one of the wettest spots on Earth (Mount Wai'ale'ale)

Kalalau Valley from the Pihea Trail. Our boat tour looked at this view from the opposite perspective.

Cathedral rocks from above

Yet another well maintained Hawaiian trail. ;)

Kalalau Valley from above. Beautiful!

After checking out the canyon and Koke'e State Parks, we drove back towards civilization to visit some south shore sites before heading to the airport to catch our evening flight to O'ahu. We had some amazing fish and pork tacos at Island Taco in Waimea, visited the small town of Hanapepe (which inspired Disney's Lilo & Stitch), and then visited the resort communities of Poi'pu.

Poi'pu is very different than the north shore beach communities. Poi'pu is on the leeward side of the island so it receives less rain and is less prone to the north shore's winter swells. Poi'pu also has nice sandy beaches and lots of fancy accomdations and restaurants. Unfortunately, Poi'pu lacks the charm and dramatic setting of Hanalei Bay. Despite the beautiful beaches, it feels bland and contrived. We would hands down recommend a stay (even without air conditioning) on the north shore of Kaua'i instead of the south.

Kalua pork tacos with a handmade tortilla at Island Taco in Waimea! Yum!

Hanapepe has seen better days, but there are some new things in downtown and we did visit a cute bookstore!

Swinging bridge across the canal in Hanapepe

Shave Ice in Hanapepe. Paul became really obsessed with this stuff. It was no Tege Tege!

Spouting Horn in Poi'pu. Sea water rushes in and causes it to blow out the top

Poi'pu Beach resort from Makawehi Bluff

People like to jump off the bluff into the ocean and then swim the short distance to shore. David would have considered doing this if we weren't on the way to the airport after this.

Makawehi Bluff. Lots of great erosion features in Hawai'i and Kaua'i especially.

Hi Paul! Don't fall in!

Wailua Falls near the Lihu'e airport. Our last stop in Kaua'i.

While Kaua'i is a less-visited island (it gets fewer visitors per year than Oahu, Maui, or the Big Island - less than 14% of visitors to Hawai'i venture to Kaua'i), we think it's a must-visit destination. The combination of beautiful beaches, soaring green mountains, spectacular rugged trails, giant waterfalls, and a fun laid-back atmosphere combine to make this the Hawaiian island we're most likely to return to.