Sunday, August 5, 2018

Auf Wiedersehen Europe!

Our last bit of time on our 2018 Europe trip consisted of an evening in Vienna after returning from Bratislava, and a day in Munich before flying out the next morning. We strolled around Vienna on a beautiful evening, revisiting some of the historic innere stadt sites and hanging out on a shared street (mariahilfer straße) south of the innere stadt. Of course we found more ice cream! For dinner, since we ate a late lunch in Bratislava, we just got some wurst and fries from Bitzinger, a popular street cart.

The Natural History Museum looking majestic in the sunset lighting.
There are tons of gardens in Vienna. These are the Volksgarten, with the Rathaus visible behind.
Hapsburg Palace.
Wurst from Bitzinger. It was good!
Gelato number five... but at this point who's counting?
Great shared street south of the innere stadt. We need more of these in the US!

The following morning we got up bright and early and bid farewell to Vienna and Austria. We retraced our steps back to the Vienna train station and took the 4 hour ride to Munich for another day in this Bavarian metropolis before our flight home to Atlanta the following morning. This time we stayed at the Cocoon Hotel Stachus near the Munich train station. It reminded us a bit of the Korean Love Motel we stayed at in Gyeongju.

After checking-in, we decided to walk around a bit and visit a couple museums to occupy our day. Our first stop was the Residenzmuseum. This museum housed the kings of Bavaria back in the day. It was heavily damaged in World War II, but some relics have survived and many rooms have been rebuilt. It's a massive museum that lets you take a peak into the lives of Bavarian royalty. It's worth a look for the very interesting Renaissance Antiquarium (room with lots of Roman/Greek art and recreations from the 1400 and 1500s), and the elaborate baroque and neoclassically styled rooms. also worth seeing is the Allerheiligen-Hofkirche, a church built in the 1800s that was largely destroyed during World War II, and has been partially rebuilt.

Back to the main train station of Vienna.
If you think the swing is weird...
...wait until you see the shower!
Entry to a shopping street near the center of Munich.
Pretty water feature in a courtyard.
Inside the Frauenkirche, Munich's cathedral from the 1400s. 
Modern shopping center on the way to the Residenzmuseum.
The impressive Antiquarium in the Residenzmuseum.
Perspective painted ceiling. When you stand in the middle you get a different sense of scale.
Pictures showing damage from World War II to the Allerheiligen-Hofkirche.
An impressive room.
The over the top throne room.
A bronze lion outside the museum that people rub for good luck.
After visiting the Residenzmuseum, we walked through the Hofgarten on our way to the next museum of the day - the NS-Dokumentationszentrum. Basically, this is the Munich Nazi museum. It's a must-see museum in Munich if you are interested in what led to Hitler's rise in power. Audioguides and thoughtful exhibits help to tell the story of the far-right extremism in Germany culminating with the rise of Nazism. The museum's exhibits seemed pretty fair, mostly denouncing extreme nationalism and Germany's role in the war. It was counterbalanced by exhibits that expressed that not all Germans were on-board and told stories of resistance. Conservative Bavaria, and Munich specifically, served as the base for much of Hitler's efforts. Reading about Hitler's style of rabble rousing and crowd manipulation draws some startling modern comparisons to America's situation.

The building itself is also very interesting. Essentially a giant white four story cube, it stands out in the neighborhood full of older buildings and gardens. Windows on every floor let in natural light and are the only source of cooling. While we were here a big thunderstorm swept through, which was impressive to see but unfortunately resulted in all the windows being closed and us increasing the pace of our visit to escape the heat inside.

Inside the Diana Temple in the Hofgarten.
The Diana Temple.
We walked past this eternal flame dedicated to the victims of the Nazis.
Europeans sure love to enjoy their brief summers!
A random fountain dedicated to beer!
The NS-Dokumentationszenstrum - i.e. the Nazi Museum
Typical exhibits in the museum outlining the rise of far right extremism.
Photos of Hitler doing poses.

Two museums were enough for one day and as the afternoon was winding down we decided to stroll to a large beer garden before finding somewhere to watch the World Cup and chill before bed and our early flight home. We found our way to Augustiner-Keller, a massive beer garden about a half mile from the Nazi Museum. While here, it started to rain again, but luckily our waitress anticipated this problem and moved us under an umbrella. Unfortunately, it was with a couple of Americans talking politics, which we tried our best to ignore. Overall, beer gardens are great places to hang out and enjoy the outdoors while drinking liters of lager and eating just ok food. It's all about the atmosphere!

The Glyptothek - museum of classical sculptures. We didn't have time to visit.
A super elaborate court building.
Augustiner-Keller. This place could seat thousands.
Paul was born to live in a city with beer gardens... literally because he's German!
Like the beer, pretzels don't come in small sizes here.
Not as good as the sausages in Vienna, but still tasty.

After hanging out in the beer garden for a while, it was time to find somewhere to watch the World Cup semifinal. We started walking back towards the city center and ran across an FC Bayern Munchen watch bar. The place wasn't very crowded. The Germans weren't in the World Cup anymore, after all. There was an interesting cast of characters, however, that kept us nearly as entertained as the Belgium v France game. There were two older guys dressed like they were on safari and an older Asian gentleman that would periodically reach into a backpack and pull out a single dorito, then very slowly lift it to his mouth, lick the cheese power off, and methodically eat it. This man clearly loved these doritos; we've never seen anyone so painstakingly consume a single chip at a time. A few younger people came into the bar, looked around and bailed...but by the end of the game the place was reasonably full and everyone seemed to enjoy the game, despite hoping for France to lose.

After the game, and the additional 2 liters of super low-alcohol beer we imbibed, bringing our total up to like 4 liters each including the beer garden, we made our way back to the hotel by way of a kebab stand. These things were all over Munich and still pretty common in Vienna. Mostly run by Turkish immigrants, Paul had wanted one most of the trip. He was pretty happy to get one after all the beer.

Wow it's like Bayern Munchen threw up all over the place.
Yet another liter of beer.
Motley crew of World Cup watchers - including dorito man in the middle with his hand in the backpack.
Finally a donor kebab. It was fine.

So ends our 2018 summer trip to Europe. We tend to avoid summer for big vacations since the weather can be hot and humid, making it uncomfortable to walk as much as we do on international trips. Luckily the weather wasn't that bad and it's not nearly as humid as Georgia, making the heat much more tolerable. The last day in Munich was almost chilly when it started raining!

Vienna and Munich are both really interesting cities. Overall, we both liked Vienna more. There are way more things to see and do in Vienna, and the city is very well planned, easy to get around, and full of interesting historic sites and monuments. We would like to visit Munich during Oktoberfest though.

Congrats again to Mahvish and Nate, and thanks for the invite!

Sunday, July 29, 2018

Bratislava - Slovakia's Capital

On our second to last full day of our brief European journey, we took a day trip to Bratislava, the nearby capital of Slovakia. It's only about an hour from Vienna by train, and the trains run about once an hour (with no need to book tickets ahead of time), making for a really easy day trip. Europeans are lucky to be able to just hop on a train and be in a city with a different culture and a different language so easily.

The train station in Bratislava needs an upgrade! It reminded us of the Lusaka Airport in Zambia.
The area right around the train station is a bit of a cluster****. But it's a short walk to the historic center.
It was a hot and sunny day, but we decided to climb up a big hill for out first stop, the Slavin Memorial. It's a memorial and burial ground for the Soviet soldiers who liberated the city from the Nazis in 1945. The monument is built in a striking Stalinist architectural style with a big plaza and commanding views of the city. It's a worth a short visit, as it's an interesting modern historical counterpoint to the other attractions in Bratislava.

Carving on the Slavin memorial
Huge empty plaza - a very Stalinist design.
View from the memorial towards modern Bratislava.
1960 communist interpretation of neoclassical architecture.
More views down toward the city, with the red roofs of the historic center visible, and the "UFO" bridge tower.

It was about a 20 minute walk winding down the hill back toward the main part of the city. We passed by Grassalkovich Palace, built in 1760 and currently the residence of Slovakia's president.

A lot of the residential streets looked about like this.
Grassalkovich Palace
Some friendly tourists took our picture in front of the fountain and palace.

It was another short walk to the historic center of Bratislava, the main tourist district. After World War II, the communists gained control in what was then Czechoslovakia. The local interpretation of these principles included ignoring the past and the historic center fell into disrepair. We read that people were so disinterested in maintaining the historic center that even the cobblestones were sold to German towns rebuilding after the war.

Today, post ascension into the EU and return to democracy, the city center is a charming area with medieval buildings full of restaurants and shops. It's clearly become popular in recent years, and we saw a number of large tourist groups exploring the sites. We wandered around for a while, stopped for a snack, and then visited St. Martin's cathedral. The cathedral was completed in 1452, but has been altered throughout the years, with much of the current structure from the 1700 and 1800s. Unfortunately, the communists built a huge road right in front of it, so it was hard to get any nice pictures of the facade.

We made it to the adorable historic center.
Historic buildings of old town Bratislava.
Michael's gate, part of the medieval city wall from 1300.
The main square. You can't tell in this picture, but it was bustling with tourists. Bratislava is firmly on the tour group map!
We stopped for some blueberry chocolate cake and mint lemonade on the main square.
The impressive interior of the cathedral.
The choir seats had these neat animal sculptures.
After spending time in the old town, we walked across the bridge over the Danube River to the "UFO," an observation platform perched on top of the bridge. It offered great views across the city and up and down the Danube and in to Austria. After enjoying the view and the breeze, we crossed back over the bridge and had lunch.

Walking across the Danube. Pedestrians and bikes have a level below the cars.
A newer area along the river on the edge of the old town, still under construction.
The view of the newer parts of town from the UFO.
Bratislava Castle and the Danube.
A leafy street on the edge of the historic center.
Traditional Slovakian food at Koliba Kamzik. It was good!

Paul had a "Zbojnícky horiaci čaj," a very strong aperitif made with Slovakian tea and herb flavored grain alcohol lit on fire! 
We also tried Slovakian beer.


Lamb and sausage with dumplings.
A sewer worker statue that is popular for some reason.
The "blue church." Creative name, right?
We weren't able to go inside, but the outside was covered with blue glass pieces.
In Soviet Russia, plaza makes you!
Unfortunately, most of the museums were closed since it was a Monday, but we still enjoyed our time walking around Bratislava for half a day. We know we didn't do this city (or country) justice by only visiting for a few hours. I'm sure we'll pass back through sometime in the future as we're criss-crossing Europe. To end our day, we took an early evening train back to Vienna and prepared for our final day in Europe.