Friday, March 21, 2014

One Night in Northern Norway: Narvik and the Northern Lights

After spending a day and a half in Kiruna, we extended our trip north of the arctic circle and went to Norway. We left Peter's car in Kiruna and took a train to Narvik, Norway. We didn't opt to drive because the road conditions can be pretty bad this far north in the winter. While this wasn't the case this year, the train was still a great way to travel and offered some amazing views of the mountains between Sweden and Norway. Narvik is located at 68°25′14″N, and is the farthest north we've ever been, barely edging out Paul's previous trip to Coldfoot, Alaska by about 1° latitude.

The train station in Kiruna.  David nearly wiped out here on the ice. Again.
The border between Sweden and Norway is very snowy and mountainous
First train station in Norway. Middle of nowhere! 
Our first view of Ofatfjord, the fjord next to Narvik.

The train wasn't crowded, so we could spread out and look out the windows. There was a snack car at the far rear of the train and lots of sleeper cars for those taking a longer voyage. The train was a really nice and affordable experience and we'd highly recommend travel by train in Sweden and Norway. After the 2.5 hour train ride we finally arrived in the city of Narvik and made our way to the hotel, which was just about a 15 minute walk from the station.

The train station in Narvik, Norway
Hehe. Full fart advertisement at the train station.
Here's the view from our hotel window.  Cute!

After a break at our hotel (the Breidablikk Gjestehus), we wandered through the city streets. Narvik is a very cute small town, full of Scandinavian charm. The city is nestled between the fjord and the mountains and offers some great winter scenery. It's probably one of the cutest cities we've visited in our travels and we'd highly recommend a day or two visit if you happen to be in the area. One thing to keep in mind while planning a trip to Narvik, and Scandinavia in general, is that food, alcohol and lodging are not cheap. The one meal we ate in Norway outside of our hotel was a dinner at a nearby bar/restaurant. The food was nice, but nothing special, and cost (including a few beers) nearly $300 for four people.  Ouch!

The roads in Narvik were treacherously icy
Unlike the time we spent in Sweden, Norway was actually kinda sunny!
Scandinavian housing
Fjord sunset
Narvik city proper
Go Ducks!

That night after dinner, we went for a walk to try to view the northern lights. The woman at the tourist desk in the train station gave us directions to a park by the water in a darker part of town, and told us we might be able to see the northern lights "if it was cold enough." We noticed that a lot of people in Sweden and Norway seemed to think the northern lights are somehow tied to temperature. In fact, they can happen at any time, it just has to be dark enough and clear enough to see them. After sitting for a while in the park (and freezing our butts off... and also drinking a bottle of wine) we started to see some faint glimmers on the horizon just as we were leaving. It wasn't very bright, but it was definitely the northern lights! Paul was able to take a couple of pictures using a 30 second exposure.

Ghost Peter will always be watching us

Northern Lights



It only lasted a short while, then we got some drinks at a bar before going back to the hotel. Just as we were going to bed, David happened to look out the window, and saw a brilliant display of light in the sky. The northern lights were suddenly very bright and colorful, with shifting patterns of green and purple dancing across the sky. We went up to the hotel's terrace and enjoyed watching them with the other hotel guests. We could see them clearly even over the city lights, but it was very difficult to take pictures. It's definitely a neat spectacle to behold, and a highlight of our trip to Scandinavia. Bucket list check!

More intense northern lights from our hotel
Watching from the hotel terrace
Narvik and the northern lights

The next day we started with an early breakfast and then hiked part way up a nearby mountain to a vista recommended by the tourist center.  The walk was pretty long and icy but we got some great views of the entire city and fjord. We hiked back down the hill and caught our train back to Kiruna. From Kiruna, Peter drove us back to Umeå where we were scheduled to take a flight to Stockholm for a few days to end our Scandinavian adventure!

Mountains around Narvik
Hiking up the icy roads to the viewpoint
Narvik from the viewpoint
Great views of the city, fjord, and mountains
Us at the viewpoint
Look!  We're Norwegian miners!

Thursday, March 13, 2014

Northern Sweden - the Ice Hotel and Dog Sledding

Our drive from Umeå to Kiruna was long and snowy. Peter was a great sport and did all the driving, since he's the only one of us who knows how to drive a stick! We passed the Arctic Circle and stopped by the gift shop (of course there's one...and they charged for the toilet!). Eventually, we made it to our hotel in Kiruna, Camp Ripan, in time for dinner (some surprisingly good Thai food for a change of pace). Kiruna had a VERY large amount of snow. It basically snowed and was cloudy for the entire time, which ruined our chances of seeing the northern lights, but we still had a blast and really loved Kiruna.

The Arctic Circle
Paul's come a long way with his fear of the friendly neighborhood yeti
This is how the road looked most of the way.  They don't really "plow" roads in Sweden. Slow going!
Night in Kiruna
Ice slides in downtown Kiruna (location of David wipe out #2)

The next day we had a busy schedule. After a breakfast that included horse meat (no, we didn't eat any!), we went to the Sámi culture park in nearby Jukkasjärvi. The Sámi are traditionally semi-nomadic reindeer herders native to northern Scandinavia. We had a chance to feed some reindeer, which are bizarre little creatures. They're kind of like a weird small deer/pony mix, with odd hooves and huge antlers.


Our snowy cabins at Camp Ripan
Breakfast at the hotel
Peter with a baby reindeer
Photo-bombed!
Fluffy!
Feeding the reindeer
The church in Jukkasjärvi
I guess we wanted to curl some more

Our next stop was the Ice Hotel. The hotel is completely rebuilt every year in October and melts in May.  They store some of the large pieces of ice in a freezer over the summer and produce more blocks each winter from the water that flows in the river next to the hotel. Each year, they commission new artists to design a handful of the rooms. These rooms change every year and are very unique. The majority of the rooms, though, have a standard design.

We did not stay in the ice hotel. You have to book well in advance and it's very expensive, but you can tour the hotel and visit the ice bar for a small fee. You're allowed access to all but two of the rooms. Guests are required to move their property from the rooms during the day to allow people to tour. It's cold in the Ice Hotel!  Snow and ice are great insulators, and the rooms are kept at a nearly constant temperature of 23*F.  In a normal winter this would feel warm. Normal February high temperatures in Kiruna are around 16*F with lows around -8*F. The weather in Kiruna while we were visiting was unseasonably warm, in the middle 20s Fahrenheit, so it actually felt colder inside the hotel. So much for David breaking his all time low temperature of 5*F set in January 2014 in Atlanta.

The deep blue color comes from ice that was a few feet below the surface of the river
Kicksleds were all over the hotel grounds for personal travel
Ice Hotel jump!
Everybody is getting in on the jumping action
HADOKEN!
Yes, the Ice Hotel has fire alarms
The artist who designed the Brazil 2014 World Cup logo made this snow carving
Just chillin on some ice furniture. Get it, "chillin"?
All bow down before the ice unicorn
Typical room at the Ice Hotel
City loft room
Pole-r bear!  This room was, by far, the most surprisingly themed.
The bed is INSIDE the metro car!  City planning nerd-out!
The ice bar was popular with tourists and made some yummy drinks
The glasses, like everything here, are made from ice from the river.  As you drink, your mouth melts away some of the glass.
Cheers!

After visiting the Ice Hotel, we returned to Kiruna to rest up a bit. That night we went dog sledding. The reason to go at night is to hopefully see the northern lights, but we didn't see them because of the cloud cover. It was still a lot of fun! There were 11 dogs to pull the 4 of us and our sled driver. The dogs, Alaskan Huskies, were super friendly and energetic. While they were harnessing them for the run, some of the dogs were so excited and eager that they were barking and jumping in place. Once we started they were completely silent, like turning on a switch.  Interesting ol"fact"ory: sometimes the dogs just go to the bathroom while running.  Also, Janice fell off the sled into a snowbank while attempting to drive the sled.


All bundled up!
Our dog team
Ready to go!
Wheeeee!
It's kind of hard to take a good picture from a moving dog sled at night
Pit stop for some hot drinks and a snack
Awwwwww
Friendly doggies!
Yeah, there was a lot of snow
Uh oh, David fell down. Wait a minute, Janice pushed him! Never trust a Canadian!  Evil always comes from the North.

We highly recommend visiting the Norrbotten region of Sweden in the winter.  It's a very unique experience.  Kiruna is a great base for winter activities. In addition to the things we did, you can ski, snowboard, go ice fishing, go reindeer sleighing, and a number of other chilly activities.

11AM "sun" doesn't make it very high in the sky
Kiruna church
Even the church statues are cold!
Modern housing in Kiruna
Next stop, Norway, via train for a 24 hour whirlwind tour to see a fjord, the northern lights and check Norway off the list!  Peter made fun of Norwegians the entire ride.  Apparently, most Swedes think they're a little slow. =)